When to Plant Cauliflower: Spring and Fall Dates (and How to Avoid Buttons)

Cauliflower is the same species as broccoli and cabbage, but it is harder to time. Clemson says it grows best at average temperatures of 60 to 65°F and is extremely sensitive to temperatures that are too hot or too cold, and University of Minnesota Extension says dense, flavorful curds form between 50 and 70°F. Illinois Extension sums up the spring problem: plant early enough to mature before summer heat, but not so early that cold injures it, a compromise that in some seasons is almost impossible to achieve.

Spring dates by last frost

The table counts from your average last spring frost. The plant-out column is 3 to 2 weeks before the frost, the earliest Illinois recommends; the seed column is about 6 weeks before that, in line with Utah State (6 to 7 weeks), Clemson (6 to 8 weeks) and Maryland (5- to 7-week-old transplants). Utah State plants a little later, 1 to 2 weeks before the last frost, which is safer in a cold spring.

Regional examples: in central Maryland (last frost around April 15), UMD lists spring seeds indoors in March and transplants in April. Clemson gives South Carolina spring transplant dates of March 20 to April 30 in the Piedmont and March 1 to April 10 on the coast. In Minnesota, UMN starts spring seeds indoors in April and suggests a fast, heat-tolerant variety of 50 to 60 days such as 'Snow Crown'.

Not too cold, not too old: avoiding buttons

"Buttoning" is when a plant forms a tiny head, an inch or less across, that never grows (Maryland). It is the classic result of bad spring timing:

• Cold after planting: Clemson and UF/IFAS both say 10 or more days between 35 and 50°F can make plants bolt or button. UF advises growing transplants at 55°F or warmer.
• Planting too early: Maryland lists planting too early in spring as a cause of button heads. Maryland calls cauliflower semi-hardy: it handles light frosts but not heavy frosts or freezing.
• Old or stressed transplants: Maryland and Utah State say overgrown transplants are more prone to buttoning. Illinois says never to buy stunted plants held too long in flats; Utah State plants out at 4 to 6 mature leaves.
• Any check in growth: Illinois says extreme cold, heat, drought or damage can stop the head from developing, and Clemson says cauliflower should never be stressed for water or fertilizer.

Fall cauliflower

Several extension services prefer the fall crop. UMN says most types are best as a midsummer planting for fall harvest, and Maryland says Mid-Atlantic gardeners generally have better success in fall. Heads that mature in cool fall weather also hold their quality longer (UMN).

Clemson says fall transplants take about 5 to 6 weeks to grow, compared with 6 to 8 in spring. The table below applies Texas A&M's 10-to-16-week window to common first-frost dates:

Texas and Florida dates

Texas A&M's vegetable gardening guide lists spring cauliflower as not recommended and gives fall planting 10 to 16 weeks before the first freeze, with 70 to 90 days to harvest. Its fall guide gives these dates by Texas gardening region (the last column is the last optimum date for setting out broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower):

In Florida, cauliflower is a cool-season crop: UF/IFAS lists planting from late August to January in North Florida and September through January in Central and South Florida, and calls transplants the most foolproof method.

Planting day

Blanching and harvest

White cauliflower needs shade on the head to stay white. When the curd shows, tie the outer leaves over it: Maryland blanches at about 2 inches across and says it takes 4 to 8 days, longer in fall; Illinois says heads are ready 7 to 12 days after blanching starts. Self-blanching varieties curl their own leaves over the head, and UMN says not to tie orange, green, purple or Romanesco types, which need sun for color. Maryland gives 50 to 80 days from transplanting and Clemson 60 to 70 days. Cut heads while they are compact, before the curds start to separate (Illinois, Clemson).

Where cauliflower goes in the garden

Cauliflower is planted and rotated with the rest of the cabbage family; UMN suggests a spot where no cabbage-family crop has grown for four years. See when to plant broccoli and cabbage for its relatives, what to plant with broccoli for companions that suit the whole family, and what to plant in fall for other fall crops.

Frequently asked questions

When should I plant cauliflower in spring?

Set transplants out no sooner than 2 to 3 weeks before your average last frost (Illinois); Maryland says 3 to 4 weeks before and Utah State 1 to 2 weeks before. Start the seeds indoors about 6 to 7 weeks earlier (Utah State).

When should I plant cauliflower for a fall harvest?

In the North, start seeds in early to late July (UMN) or transplant in mid to late July (Illinois). Maryland sows in early July and transplants late July to early August. In Texas, plant 10 to 16 weeks before the first freeze (Texas A&M).

Why did my cauliflower make tiny heads?

That is buttoning. Maryland, Utah State and Clemson link it to overgrown or stressed transplants, planting too early, and cold spells: 10 or more days between 35 and 50°F (Clemson, UF/IFAS).

Can cauliflower take frost?

Light frost, yes. Maryland calls it semi-hardy: it withstands light frosts but not heavy frosts or freezing. Illinois says it is more sensitive to cold than its cabbage-family relatives.

Can I plant cauliflower in spring in Texas?

Texas A&M's vegetable gardening guide lists spring cauliflower as not recommended. Plant it in fall, 10 to 16 weeks before the first freeze.

How long does cauliflower take to grow?

About 50 to 80 days from transplanting (Maryland) or 60 to 70 days (Clemson); Texas A&M lists 70 to 90 days. Illinois says heads are ready 7 to 12 days after blanching starts.