Guides

When to Plant Parsnips: Spring Sowing Dates and Winter Harvest

When to plant parsnips, from extension sources: spring sowing dates by last frost, fresh seed and slow germination, spacing, why frost sweetens them, overwintering and harvest.

Updated Oct 2026 · 8 min read · Extension-sourced

Short answer

Sow parsnip seed straight into the garden in early spring, about 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost, once the soil has reached about 40°F (Utah State). Illinois plants in April or May; in Minnesota, UMN sows from about May 1. Parsnips take 100 to 120 days, so they grow all summer. Leave them in the ground until after a few hard frosts in fall: cold turns their starch to sugar.

Parsnips are a long-season root, slower than their cousin the carrot and much better after cold weather. The timing is simple: one spring sowing, one long summer, and a harvest that starts in late fall and can run through winter into early spring.

Spring sowing dates by last frost

The table counts back from your average last spring frost. The sowing window is 3 to 2 weeks before the frost, which is Utah State's guideline. The last column adds its 100 to 120 days to maturity, but most gardeners wait for frost before digging (see harvest).

Average last spring frostSow seed outdoorsRoots mature (100 to 120 days)
Mar 1Feb 8 – Feb 15May 19 – Jun 15
Mar 15Feb 22 – Mar 1Jun 2 – Jun 29
Apr 1Mar 11 – Mar 18Jun 19 – Jul 16
Apr 15Mar 25 – Apr 1Jul 3 – Jul 30
May 1Apr 10 – Apr 17Jul 19 – Aug 15
May 15Apr 24 – May 1Aug 2 – Aug 29
Jun 1May 11 – May 18Aug 19 – Sep 15

Regional examples: in central Maryland, UMD's planting calendar direct seeds parsnips in April. Illinois plants in early April or May. University of Minnesota Extension starts parsnips from May 1. Later spring sowings still work, but seed sown into hot soil does poorly: Utah State says parsnips germinate best at 55 to 65°F, and germination drops sharply above 80°F.

Sowing parsnips: slow and patient

Parsnips are always direct seeded; UMN says not to start them in pots, since the roots don't transplant. Seedlings can take up to 3 weeks to appear (UMN); Utah State gives 14 to 21 days in ideal soil. Because the row is slow to show, Illinois and UMN both suggest dropping in a few radish seeds as row markers. The radishes come up within days and are pulled long before the parsnips need the room.

StepWhat extension sources say
Seed depth¼ to ½ inch (Utah State); ½ to ¾ inch, 2 to 3 seeds per inch (Illinois)
Keep it moistDon't let the soil crust or dry out while seeds germinate
Thinning2 to 4 inches apart (Illinois, UMN) or 3 to 6 inches (Utah State), when seedlings are 3 to 4 inches tall (UMN)
Rows18 to 24 inches apart, or 8 to 10 inches in beds (Illinois); 12 to 18 inches (Utah State)
SoilDeep, loose, stone-free soil; UMN prefers sandy loam to clay
WaterAbout 1 inch a week (UMN), 1 to 2 inches (Utah State)
Days to maturity100 to 120 days from seeding (Utah State)

Frost, harvest and overwintering

This is where parsnips differ from most crops. Illinois says parsnip flavor develops after 2 to 4 weeks of near-freezing temperatures in late fall or early winter, when stored starch turns to sugar, and Utah State says a 32°F frost doesn't seriously damage the plants. UMN recommends leaving them in the ground until late fall, or even early spring, because later harvests are sweeter.

  • Digging: roots are 10 to 12 inches long (UMN), so loosen the soil with a spading fork rather than pulling by the tops.
  • Overwintering: after the first hard frosts, cover the row with a few inches of soil or straw mulch (Illinois) or heavy mulch (Utah State), and dig through winter whenever the ground isn't frozen.
  • Spring deadline: dig overwintered roots before new top growth starts. Illinois says they turn fibrous after that, and UMN says roots taste worse once the flower stalk begins.
  • Storage: Utah State stores parsnips at 32°F and high humidity for 2 to 4 weeks, and says not to store them with apples or pears.

Texas, Florida and warm climates

The Texas A&M and UF/IFAS planting guides we use don't list parsnips. They need a long, cool season and sweeten in near-freezing weather, so they are best suited to areas with cold winters. If you try them in a warm area, sow when the soil is cool rather than in summer heat, since germination falls off above 80°F (Utah State).

Where parsnips go in the garden

Parsnips belong to the same family as carrots, celery and parsley, and they have similar needs: loose soil, steady moisture and thinning. See what to plant with carrots for neighbors that also suit parsnips, and when to plant beets, radishes and turnips for the fast roots that can share the bed. Because parsnips hold a spot for most of the year, put them at the edge of the bed where they won't block summer crops.

Frequently asked questions

When should I plant parsnips?

In early spring, about 2 to 3 weeks before your average last frost, once the soil reaches about 40°F (Utah State). Illinois plants in April or May, and UMN from about May 1 in Minnesota.

Can you plant parsnips in fall?

The extension sources we checked plant parsnips in spring. They take 100 to 120 days and are harvested in fall and winter after frost, not sown then.

Why didn't my parsnip seeds come up?

Old seed is the usual cause: parsnip seed is short-lived, so buy fresh seed each spring (Illinois). Seedlings can also take up to 3 weeks to appear, and germination drops in soil above 80°F.

When are parsnips ready to harvest?

Roots mature 100 to 120 days after sowing, but they taste much better after 2 to 4 weeks of near-freezing weather (Illinois). Many gardeners dig them in late fall, through winter, or in early spring.

Can you leave parsnips in the ground over winter?

Yes. Cover them with a few inches of soil or straw mulch after the first frosts, and dig them before new growth starts in spring, when the roots turn fibrous.

Can you transplant parsnips?

No. UMN says to always direct seed parsnips, never start them in pots; the long taproot doesn't transplant well.

Planting calendar

Enter your frost dates to see when carrots, beets and every other early crop can go in alongside parsnips.

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Sources

Pairings are summarized in our own words from extension-service guidance. Research support for many companion effects is limited, so treat them as good habits, not guarantees.

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